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Estimated scrap value

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The number above is melt value, not a quote — real buyers pay less to cover refining and profit margin. Both buyers below accept silver jewelry, flatware, and coins (not silver-plated items):

We may be compensated if you sell through a link above, at no cost to you — see our disclaimer. Always get more than one quote.

Estimate only, based on the live silver spot price and the pure-silver weight you enter. This is not a purchase offer and not financial or investment advice. See our full disclaimer.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is "junk silver"?

Junk silver refers to circulating US coins minted before 1965 — dimes, quarters, and half dollars — that were struck in 90% silver (.900 coin silver) before the US switched to copper-nickel clad coins. Despite the name, they're valued purely for their silver content, often above face value.

How do I tell if my flatware is real silver or silver-plated?

Look for a hallmark: "STERLING" or "925" means solid sterling silver; "EPNS" (electroplated nickel silver), "SILVERPLATE," or no hallmark at all usually means plated. Plated flatware has negligible melt value, since the silver layer is extremely thin.

Why would a buyer pay less than the melt value shown here?

Melt value is the raw silver content's worth. A buyer still has to verify purity, separate out any non-silver components (like knife blades, which are often steel even on a "sterling" set), and cover refining costs and margin — so a real offer sits below melt value.

Is there a minimum amount of scrap silver worth selling?

Given silver's lower per-gram value compared to gold, small amounts (a single ring or a few coins) may not be worth the effort of shipping to a mail-in buyer. Consolidating everything you have — flatware, jewelry, and coins together — before selling usually makes more sense than selling piece by piece.